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landscapes

The magical rivers of Surinam’s remote interior

River folk

In western fantasy rivers often form the barrier that shelters some magical land from the outside world. Whether it is the Brandywine bordering the Shire, or the Two Rivers hiding the inhabitants of Emond’s Field from the attention of their fellow countrymen. In contrast to the continuous strife and political upheaval beyond, life within these borders continuous unchanged, as it has for the past hundreds or thousands of years. Sometimes the isolation has endured for so long that even the memory of the world outside is forgotten. 

In our own place and time, such idyllic places are rare and hard to find, despite the claims and promises found in almost any travel itinerary. Most of the world’s river systems have been fully explored, and what natural resources were discovered along the way exploited, leaving behind but a hollow shell in which you can hear the faintest echo of the natural richness that once was. Yet, some wild places do remain on our planet. Places where visitors can still feel (un)comfortably lost. Places where rivers still maintain their magical spell upon the land and those who visit. And few cast a spell as strong as those flowing through the interior of Surinam.

Wreathing vast stands of primary forest, the biodiversity experienced while traveling along the rivers is simply stupefying. Here still be giants, dwarves, and many other curious creatures that tickle the human imagination. In remote areas unfamiliar with hunting, the disposition of the animals towards visitors is one of watchful examination; a big change from the rapid flight response observed in the same species in more populated areas, where many are considered prized game. Faced with such a dramatically different experience of nature, perhaps a hint of what the word pristine was meant to describe, the visitor’s mind is bedazzled, and beguiled.  

Hoogmoed’s harlequin toad is one of the many species of poisonous amphibians that can be found in the forests and banks along the riverbeds

Even in our fantasy stories idyllic lands never remain untouched by the outside world forever, and Surinam’s magical interior is, unfortunately, no exception. Here, the toxic traces of illegal gold mining increasingly spread through remote inland waters, and forests and people and wildlife alike are faced with excessive droughts and flood events. 

The black curassow is considered a prime hunting target and has become generally shy in response, except for individuals living in the remote interior.

The perceived idyl was thus but an outsider’s dream. An exotic view formed by a youth spend watching nature documentaries on the planet’s wildest places while being surrounded by bricks, concrete, and intensively cultivated lands. In short, a youth spent in the hollow shell where such images served as a replacement for the natural richness that was lost.

But does this mean that the myth of the idyl does not hold a purpose? After all, all good fantasies are rooted in reality. Meaning there must have been some truth in the visitor’s experience of ‘pristine nature’ too. One thing is certain,  each visitor to Surinam’s interior is sure to be left with a lifetime’s worth of inspiration. Let us hope these magical lands can keep casting their spell strong enough to inspire those that decree as well that there is sufficient value in continuing protecting the idyll from the strife of the outside world.

Categorieën
landscapes

Coming up soon..

Coming up soon..!

A recent trip to the extremely biodiverse Guiana shield left a big impression and inspiration for a set of four new short stories centering on river folk, colourful characters, life in the undergrowth, and night crawlers; coming up soon!

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landscapes

Sculpted by the flow. Landscape photography Huawei P30

Sculpted by the flow

Water’s dual nature, its soft, life-giving properties, and terrifyingly destructive force have left their imprints across cultural traditions. “Nothing in the world is as soft and yielding as water. Yet for dissolving the hard and inflexible, nothing can surpass it…”, is but one of the many metaphors attributed to the ancient Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu (~ 600 B.C.), illustrating how the soft forces of life overcome the rigid and hard.

Anglers using the low tide to fish of an eroded cliff at the Atlantic ocean @Huawei P30, silky water mode.

Coastal cliffs along the Atlantic provide us with great examples of the sculpting force of water. The kinetic energy contained in gentle, undulating swells, has propagated for thousands of miles across the open ocean before reaching shore. Then, quite suddenly, they concentrate and form towering blue jaws that unleash their force upon the rocks in a mere fraction of a second.

Solitary rock cut off from the cliffs by the eroding waters @HuaweiP30 Silky water mode

To visualise the flow or power of water we are faced with the choice to either slow time down or speed it up, relative to our own perception. When we wind time down we can view the paths that the soft, silky flows of water take along the rock’s surface, etching their way in ever so slowly. If instead, we speed time up, we can see the hard ‘impact’ force that water can represent. So, over 2400 years later, we still find back the paradox that water is both soft and hard, now depending on camera exposure time. One is left wondering what the ancient masters would think of our more recent photographic perceptions.

Top left & right long exposure times using the HuaweiP30 silky water mode highlight the carving paths of the flows of water, whereas the bottom image of the author riding a wave (by Andre F. Jesus, all rights reserved) using a fast shutter speeds expresses the power of water.
Categorieën
landscapes wildlife

Winter blowout. Wildlife photography Fujifilm XT-3 XF 100-400mm

Winter Blowout

There is nothing quite like the frosty sting of a winter gale in the North Atlantic; those winds that mercilessly hammer down upon the coast each year and all those that choose to occupy it. Immortalized in many a painting are the chaotic clashing, merging, and diverging of large turbid waves under the direction of the wind, enshrouding the beachfront in a permanent bank of sea spray. With the winds cutting into every crevice of exposed skin and lashing trespassers with sharp streams of sand, the message seems clear: the coast has been annexed and does not welcome visitors.

Then sometimes, quite suddenly, we might find a moment, an hour, or maybe just a day of calmness. The winds temporarily relieve their grip and the boundary between sea and sand reemerges from the clearing spray. We see the lifeless remnants of marine organisms the sea has spit onto the beach, but also some surprising inhabitants that, although obscured from view in the storm, never really left. 

Lone sanderling amidst the spume @400mm/f5.6/1/640.

The sanderling is a remarkable wader found on these beaches, minute in size and weighing only 50g, it might appear fragile. Yet, this master migrator from the arctic is tough to the bone and spends its wintertime on the North Atlantic coast in a constant state of movement. Foraging in the ever-shifting no man’s land shortly appearing between the incoming and receding waterline, its life fully in tune with the period of the waves; a true ‘wave runner’. Ironically, capturing a moment of stillness in their highly active lives can be more tricky than one of movement. It takes a crawling, belly-to-the-ground approach to appreciate their perspective. One that instantly changes the perception of fragility, to a sense of belonging, there where the spumy waters meet the blowing sands.

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landscapes

Island mist. Landscape photography Huawei P30

Island mist

In early February, the coast was struck by a dense curtain of sea fog that retained its grip for several days. The phenomenon occurs when a front of warm, southern air, meets a cold, wintery sea. At its most dense, the conditions do not leave much opportunity to capture images; it’s simply white all around you, and it is difficult to tell front from back. Frequently, however, the fog yields some of its cover over the course of the day.

View from the seawall shot with the Huawei P30 Pro, the boundary between horizon and the sky dissolving near the center.

It is these brief openings in the mist that provide for some eerie, or ethereal, views, depending on your disposition. Standing out on the seawall, the sky and the horizon seem to coalesce into a single, bright, continuum. On the beach, people start to venture out further into the banks of fog, slowly being engulfed in the process. The dissolving boundaries between ‘here’ and ‘there’, are much like an existential crossroad; either losing your path or finding your way.

A person venturing out into the fog banks covering the beach, shot with the Huawei P30 Pro